前言

这是一个在新闻联播里听见次数最多的国家,耶路撒冷是基督教,伊斯兰教以及犹太教共认的世界中心,三大宗教的圣地。而吸引我前往这里,除了错综复杂的历史和宗教,更多的是对犹太人的一种敬佩。

在西藏初识信仰的力量,随后去了很多宗教国家,发现无论在哪个国度信仰都被融合在了生活中,对一个人的一生影响深重。而在以色列,信仰作为一种信念已成为每个犹太人世世代代的精神支柱。凭借此力量,犹太人在1800年的大流散后再次回到这个应许之地,开辟了一个新的犹太国家。

之前很多朋友都很疑惑的问我,如此一个战乱之地为何敢于前往? 其实现今的以色列已经与过去不同,虽然在这里宗教分歧依旧很严重,但在耶路撒冷大家都能在各自的区域和平相处。做为全世界最具有争议的区域,一直很想亲自过来看看。一系列的旅游让我明白只有亲身体会才能发现,世界并不是新闻联播里的样子。

“世界若有十分美,九分在耶路撒冷,世界若有十分哀愁,九分在耶路撒冷”,这是一座美丽与哀愁、纷争与鲜活同在的悲情圣城。有机会一定要来感悟一下,这里不同于任何国家。

 

出发前准备:

航班

我们这次以色列之行的机票提前一年就购买好了,很早开始关注,一般上海到以色列的机票正常价格都在9000元左右,特价一般是7000元.俄罗斯航空的居多,需要在莫斯科转机。一次偶然的机会看到海航开通了北京到特拉维夫的航班,国庆期间的价格只需要4600元含税,当即果断买下。海航到特拉维夫的班机每周三班,周二 周四 周日凌晨1:55起飞。当地时间早上6:00到,飞行12个小时,回来的航班是下午15:30起飞,北京时间早晨5:45到达首都机场,飞行9个小时。海航的国际航班感觉一般,座位空间不大,没有USB的充电设备,飞机餐和国内航班差不了多少,空姐的服务也相对比较冷淡。好在是北京直飞,省去了转机的折腾。

酒店

我们这次的酒店分别都是在booking, Agoda和ARIBNB上预定的 我们一行5人,偏向于公寓,但最终因为行程的关系只在耶路撒冷预定了公寓,别的都是酒店。

 

埃拉特:

Melony Motel

推荐指数:3星

预定价格:550/天(标间)带免费早餐

为了过境到约旦,我们在埃拉特只入住一晚,选择了一家相对性价比比较高的酒店,这家在当地属于快捷酒店,类似国内的锦江之星,酒店离机场1.5公里,周边环境都还不错,有一个很小的游泳池,预定价格包含自助早餐,打开房间的窗户可以直接看到红海。房间还算干净。

佩特拉:

Petra Moon Hotel

推荐指数:4星

预定价格:670/天(标间)带免费早餐

这家酒店在佩特拉景区的门口,步行3分钟。进出景点非常方便,强烈建议大家把酒店订在佩特拉景区门口,这里吃饭住宿都很方便,如果订在瓦迪穆萨小镇的话,每次进出酒店还要打车前往。酒店外观很普通,感觉就是一栋普通的中东民房,不过内部装修还不错,房间设施也很齐全,很干净。类似国内的4星酒店。

瓦迪拉姆

Salman Zwaidh Camp

推荐指数:4星

预定价格:940/天(6人帐篷房)带免费早餐 晚餐

这里的住宿都在沙漠的营地里,除了有几家号称豪华帐篷外,选择余地不大。个人感觉我们这样的普通帐篷已经不错了。营地里有公共卫生间和浴室,蛮干净的。基本没什么异味。洗浴没有热水,帐篷分2人 3人 6人 和8人的,我们入住的是8人帐篷。行军床,床上配有毛毯,沙漠地区半夜温度差不多13度左右,穿了一件轻薄羽绒服,晚上不冷。这里只能选择在营地里就餐,所以预定的时候尽量选包含晚餐的价格,晚餐是中东特色的烤鸡,土豆配米饭,味道非常不错。另外我们在约旦的包车和沙漠内的越野车全是通过这家酒店老板预定的,费用合理,信誉很好,全程结束后再收费。酒店老板联系方式

Salman: WhatsApp:+962799603157

耶路撒冷

Spacious 3 bedrooms flat In Katamon

推荐指数:5星

预定价格:1165/天(6人公寓)

这家是所有入住中最满意的,从AIRBNB上预定的公寓,位于耶路撒冷的犹太人居住区,周边环境非常好,楼下就是一家大型超市,购物很方便。房东是以色列人,人不错很热心,有什么需要咨询的都可以问他。这套房子位于犹太人的居住区内,差不多200个平方,有3间卧室,2间是双人大床,1间是两张小床。可住6人。

房间内设施齐全,开放式厨房,洗碗机,洗衣机 冰箱都有,以色列的物价几乎比国内高1-2倍,吃顿晚餐几乎人均都要200元RMB。所以我们在这都是楼下超市买牛排 蔬菜等自己来烹饪,很方便。国外很多游客都不喜欢住酒店,特别喜欢这种的公寓,除了住的舒适以外还能感受到家的温暖。

我们抵达公寓的时候,前一任租客特意给我们留了未开封的意大利面,速冻青豆,和一瓶鲜榨果汁。在国外AIRBNB上有个未成文的规矩,就是离开之前都会为下一位入住的租客留点东西,以备不时之需。我们到的那天正好是安息日,所有店铺都关门。虽然最终我们找到了一家餐厅,但这个传统还是非常值得提倡的,每次新的租客入住的时候都会感受到一份暖意。

特拉维夫:

Idelson Hotel

推荐指数:3星

预定价格:600/天(标间)无早餐

特拉维夫的酒店都特别贵,本来我们打算订AIRBNB的公寓,但由于正巧是犹太新年,最终只能选择这家。这家酒店的性价比不高。房间很小,也没有早餐。贵在位置不错,步行到海边5分钟,步行到特拉维夫最大的shipping mall 只要10分钟。酒店对面就有个咖啡店,早餐能在这解决。

交通

我们的行程是以色列和约旦两地,从埃拉特南部关口出入约旦。订了特拉维夫往返埃拉特的机票,如果让我们再选择一次的话,我们会选择以色列境内全程包车。在以色列打车太贵了,而且非常的不正规,乱收费现象很严重,3公里起步费开价都要30-40谢克,折合人民币差不多60-80元。一开始我们觉得打表会正规些,要求司机打表,但以色列出租车的计价器上有一个按钮,每按一次都会跳10几谢克,经过几次打车后发现了这个秘密。每次司机到目的地都会偷偷按一下,然后在原价上会跳高10几元,与司机理论,要么装傻,要么说这个是行李费。最终我们根据谷歌地图上估算的公里数直接和司机谈价格。

另外犹太人每周五4点到周六晚上6点都要过安息日,安息日所有商铺和公共交通都会停运,自己开车的话会方便很多。当初看了很多攻略都说耶路撒冷自驾很不方便,其实现在看下来还可以的,除了老城比较麻烦外,别的地方都很方便。而且老城很小也就一平方公里,完全可以把车停在城外,步行逛老城。

货币

以色列的官方货币是谢克,与人民币的汇率差不多是1:1.78,方便计算的话直接把以色列的价格乘以二就行。当初看攻略都说以色列的ATM机可以用银联卡取现,但我试过好几个银行的ATM机,没一个可以取现的。 所以一定要带美金来,机场直接换汇就行。约旦与人民币的汇率是1:9.5,瓦迪穆萨镇上有个HOUSING BANK的ATM机,可以用银联卡取现,但这里ATM机很少,尽量还是多带点美金吧。无论以色列还是约旦,酒店 餐馆都可以用信用卡,折算的汇率也不错,比换汇高一些。能刷卡的地方尽量刷卡。

签证

以色列的签证需要的东西不多,由于我们要入境约旦,需要以色列出具2次入境的签证,但所有淘宝店铺都无法保证能签出,最终我们根据以色列官网要求自己办理的,其实自己办理非常的方便,根据网页上的提示操作就行,自己写一个英文说明,告知需要前往约旦,需出具2次入境签证,只要能提供行程单和酒店预订单,一般都能签出来。而且速度很快,我寄出资料后,第三天就收到了。

以色列上海领事馆的网页:http://www.isconshanghai.org/web/page.phpid=43

 

个人旅游签证所需资料:

1. 签证申请人有效护照(有效期不少于6个月,有两页以上空白页)及旧护照;
2. 英文填写完整并签字的签证申请表格一份(需两次入境的,请务必在表格空白也上备注)
3. 两张5cm X 5cm照片(白色背景),反面写上名字
4. 申请人工作单位证明原件(英文)
5. 英文行程 (若申请两次入境,请单独标注或说明),酒店预订单,以及往返以色列的机票预订单;
6. 申请人最近三个月银行流水对账单(银行盖章)
7. 境外旅游医疗险(保额不少于300,000人民币) 淘宝上可以办理 差不多180元
8.签证费付款凭证(领事馆网页上直接操作按提示付款即可)
9.填写完整的有本人详细回邮地址的EMS快递单
10. 未成年人随父母一方出行的,请提供如下附加材料:出生证复印件,户口本复印件,父母中不随行方提供的同意子女出行的公证书。

网络:

以色列的WIFI网络还是很发达的,基本在公共场所都能连接到免费的WIFI,但是为了能随时随地的上网,建议还是购买一张上网卡,我们是提前在淘宝上购买的,搜索以色列上网卡就能轻松找到,该卡是3G卡,可以在好几个欧洲国家使用,我们买了1G流量的,价格好像180元左右。7天用下来还不错,也够用,毕竟酒店都有免费WIFI。苹果手机装上该卡后记得把设置里的数据漫游打开。其余不用设置就能直接上网。

小米手机本身就自带虚拟漫游的,只需提前购买小米漫游就行,一天300M 流量 9元钱左右,到达以色列后开启漫游会虚拟一张SIM卡出来,立刻就能上网了。(手机必须有个SIM卡槽是空的)。如果在以色列当地买卡差不多也是180元人民币,6G流量一个月有效期。我们是在大马士革门对面的阿拉伯小店买的,网速比国内买的更快。约旦我们没有买卡,只在酒店里用WIFI上网。在路上碰见中国游客,问了下他们买的卡差不多100RMB左右吧,并且在佩特拉和Wadi Rum营地都有信号。

手机APP

Google地图是必装的,出门在外全靠它了,在以色列,谷歌地图的定位是非常精准的,而且精细到可以显示你等的公交最近这班几点到站。另外还有个叫GETT的以色列打车软件,类似我们的滴滴打车,用这个叫出租车很方便。WhatsApp也必装,类似微信,通过对方的电话号码直接可以添加,并且不用对方认证就能发消息,这样和包车司机,酒店老板都能很方便的联系。还有Tripadvisor,类似国内的大众点评,寻找好的餐馆都靠他。

饮食:

出行前看了一些以色列的攻略,很多攻略上都说以色列的菜非常难吃,但是全程下来无论是以色列还是约旦,感觉还是很不错的,我们基本都是通过Tripadvisor来找餐厅,上面有排名的餐厅一般可以尝试。在埃拉特用这个软件找到一家专门吃鱼的餐厅,人均200多RMB吧,味道非常不错,有很多种鱼选择。具体的餐馆我游记里慢慢介绍。

购物

以色列的物价非常的贵,一瓶普通的小瓶水折合人民币10元。一听可乐差不多也是10元。基本所有东西都比国内要贵一倍。当然了,也有值得购买的。来以色列旅游肯定必买死海泥产品了。AHAVA护手霜和面膜比较出名,在特拉维夫,不同的店铺价格差距很大,比较下来机场的是最便宜的,不过由于以色列值机和安检时间很长,一般过关都需要花费2小时,最终能购物的时间会很短,而且中国来以色列的旅游团很多,买起来基本都是一箱一箱搬的,机场内AHAVA产品很容易卖完,建议尽量大家在特拉维夫SHOPPING MALL里购买 然后去机场办理13%退税,折算下来价格差别不大。

另外还有个是摩洛哥精油(100ml)Moroccanoil,这个产品是以色列生产的,当地购买非常便宜,美国亚马逊上的价格差不多36美金,以色列机场搞活动才23美金一瓶。好像只有机场能买到,商场里没有。

特拉维夫那哈拉特 本雅明街艺术市场,是一个临时的艺术市场,只有经过注册挑选的以色列顶级设计师才有资格在这里摆摊儿,注意每周只有周二和周五开放。

耶路撒冷Nahalat Shiiva区的Yoel Moshe Salomon Street,就在Harmony Hotel门口,整条街都是设计师艺术品店,也可以去逛逛

耶鲁撒冷老城内犹太区,Cardo购物区,建在老城考古废墟之上,在地下一层,两边是琳琅满目的艺术品小店

游记正文

在2015年10月份就和朋友商量决定16年国庆假期前往以色列和约旦,之所以选择以色列,完全是着迷于它浓厚的历史和宗教。中东战争,巴以冲突,从小到大一直挂在耳边,一直想去现场看看世界是不是新闻联播里的样子。

从10月份开始关注机票,11月初发现北京到特拉维夫的海航在搞促销,国庆节期间的机票往返只有4600元,和朋友果断买下,这样以色列之行最终敲定。在接下去的近1年的时间内才开始慢慢制定这次的行程。

由于16年的国庆正好与犹太人的新年冲突再加上安息日犹太人公共交通全部停止营业,整个行程计划规划了好几次才最终确认。

 

9月25-26日 上海-北京-特拉维夫-埃拉特

我们购买的北京-特拉维夫机票是26日凌晨1:55的,25日晚上7点从上海飞到北京,由于最近航班延误很频繁,一直担心会赶不上国际航班,好在最终只晚点了30分钟到达北京。从北京出关,搭乘海航MU7957前往特拉维夫,我们提前在官网进行了值机,考虑能在飞机上看到日出,特意选择了靠左侧的位置。在去之前一直以为北京飞往以色列的航线线应该是:

正常航线:北京-中国西南-印度-巴基斯坦-经波斯湾穿越阿拉伯半岛(或经伊朗高原)抵达以色列

这样充其量飞行时间也就是7-8个小时,而戏剧的是阿拉伯国家对以色列的憎恨导致以色列为了飞行安全不得不让飞往特拉维夫的航班绕行。

现航线:中国的西北进入哈萨克斯坦-绕过里海进入黑海–再穿过土耳其-进入地中海抵达以色列!足足飞了12个半小时!

航班准点到达特拉维夫机场,该机场以国父戴维·本-古里安命名,这个有着爱因斯坦发型的老头,正是他的一系列努力造就了这个犹太人民的国家。

下飞机后尽量走的快些,赶在人群前办理出关手续,出关没有想象的那么严格,只是简单的问了你一下行程就放行了,放行的时候给了一张入境卡,凭此卡才能出最后的闸机门,并且务必保留好此卡,在以色列入住酒店等都需要扫描此卡。

出机场大门就能看见ATM机,但遗憾的是不支持银联卡,建议大家尽量在此航站楼用美金换汇,市区换汇不是很方便,而且汇率也都差不多。我们当天转机前往埃拉特,再次安检的时候终于领略到了以色列安检是多么的严格。

安检前排着长队,队伍分两列,其中一列是军人,在以色列所有的青年都必须参军,男的服役3年,女的服役2年。在服役期间,必须枪不离身。因此这也成为以色列独有的一道风景线。街上随处可见背着M16的军人,可能是因为犹太人在大流散时期分布在全世界各地与各国人通婚,血缘分散的很开,导致目前以色列的年轻人80%都很帅气漂亮。穿着军装,斜跨着M16冲-锋-枪,很亮眼。军人乘坐飞机,枪-械需要特殊托运,到达目的地后,凭借托运卡领取自己的枪支。

另一列就是普通市民了,尤其针对我们这类国外的游客会格外的严格,除了开箱一一检查外还会盘问很多的问题,我们一行5人被一一隔开,分别有人来单独询问,从你的行程路线,居住的酒店一直会问到曾经到达过哪些国家。我们一行人中有朋友曾经去过马来西亚旅游,护照上有相应的签证,由于马来西亚属于穆斯林国家,为此问的非常的详细,前后盘问了近40分钟才结束,这绝对是练英语口语的最好机会,网络上一对一的英语对话30分钟还需收取100元呢。

安检完毕后办理好值机进入候机厅,以色列国内航班很少,这个航站楼也相对比较小,候机厅内有一个很小的咖啡吧,可以刷信用卡。随便点了几个面包和饮料 结账后吓一跳,瓶装可乐12谢克,折合人民币近24元。当时以为是机场消费比较高,后面才发现以色列消费普遍都很高。

从特拉维夫飞往埃拉特的是小型飞机,也是我第一次乘坐类似的飞机,全程45分钟,起飞后每人倒一杯水基本就要降落了,最傻眼的是,起飞后看见旁边坐的以色列人全程在刷FACEBOOK,居然在高空中可以使用手机自身的流量上网!

飞机还算很稳的降落在了埃拉特机场,埃拉特位于以色列的南部,靠近红海,是一个经济开发区。这里购物都免税,埃拉特机场很小,甚至不如我们一个县级的汽车站大,由于我们提前没有换汇,导致身上一分钱也没有,问了下机场服务人员,最近的换汇点步行也要10分钟。打开Google map查了下,酒店离我们1.5公里,步行差不多15分钟。没办法 只能拖着行李走过去,这1.5公里基本都是上山坡道,而且是顶着中午的烈日在走,走到酒店门口已经一身汗了。

酒店是一栋小楼,估计也就10几个房间吧,办理入住手续很快,进入房间稍作休整就出发了,按酒店服务员告知的方向先去换汇,路上遇见一家阿迪达斯的奥特莱斯店,发现价格还是很优惠的,买了一双白色板鞋,折合人民币230元。在附近的一家小店用了简单的午餐,终于发现以色列的消费确实是贵。由于餐厅在汽车站附近,用餐的时候不时有以色列军人经过,看见每个人都斜跨着M16,吃饭的时候包放一边,但M16必随身背着。第一次感觉到战争离自己是如此的近。

简单的用完午餐,直接打车前往红海海滨,埃拉特的红海非常的清澈,能看见红珊瑚,是著名的潜水胜地,这里有好几处潜水的地方,一处是观看红珊瑚的,一处是近距离观看海豚的,由于时间已晚,我们没有去潜水,只是在红海沿岸稍看了下就去了当地最大的shipping mall-Ice mall.虽然号称在当地最大,但和国内的商场比起来还是小很多。埃拉特是免税区,但整个商场逛下来没发现有什么亮点,最后在Tripadvisor里找了一家附近相对有名的海鲜店吃了一顿味道算不错的晚餐。

埃拉特最有名的餐厅叫Pedro,但由于离我们较远最终没有去。另外一家叫Les Sardines,离ICE MALL不远,步行差不多10分钟。环境很不错。这家主要以红海的鱼为主,很鲜嫩,我们尝试了好几个品种,都不错,各有特色。我们5人一共消费了1100元RMB。性价比还算蛮高的吧。这家店在红海沿岸,吃好饭后可以在附近散散步 吹吹海风。

9月27日  埃拉特-佩特拉

今天我们主要任务是从以色列过境到约旦,出发前就已经联系好了约旦司机,约好11点在约旦关口碰头,我们9点出发,打车到了以色列位于埃拉特的南部关口。以色列共有3个关口,北部关口 中部关口 与南部关口。中部关口是最严格的,一般游客都不会选择,南部关口从今年1月份开始不接受落地签了,从这里过关必须提前购买JODAN PASS.

这里说一下去约旦游玩JODAN PASS必买,所谓的JODAN PASS 类似于我们国内的一卡通联票,其中包含佩特拉,Wadi Rum的门票 还包括你进入约旦的签证费用。在国内出发前就先购买好 官网:http://www.jordanpass.jo/,信用卡可以直接付款,成功后会给你一个二维码,携带此二维码就行,过境,进出景点 都会扫描此二维码。Jodan pass 有三个价格,70JD的是包含佩特拉一日游的,75JD包括佩特拉2日,80JD包括佩特拉3日。根据自己的需要选择吧。

进入以色列关口后 按提示在各个窗口办理手续,缴纳RMB180元左右的离境税后 就能出关,以色列关口与约旦关口间差不多有100多米,虽然目前两国还算和平,但毕竟约旦是穆斯林国家,今天的和平源于诸多的无奈,约旦作为曾经中东战争的主力,面对数次都灭不了的以色列,只能选择与其接近,但两国目前还有很多悬而未决的争议搁置着。对以色列来说,最大的威胁莫过与约旦河东岸的约旦了。几次中东战争以后,目前以色列占据了戈兰高地,控制了加利利湖,戈兰高地是一处非常重要的军事要地,控制此处可以守住北面的叙利亚,加利利湖是以色列最重要的淡水水源。而这2块地方,50年前都是属于约旦的。

出了以色列关口步行3分钟就进入约旦关口,按要求办理了一些手续,简单的查了一下行李就被放行入境了,这里和以色列区别特别大,我们后面返回以色列的时候,行李足足被检查了10几分钟,而以色列到约旦,只是象征性的抽查了一下而已。

约旦关口荒芜一片,只有几辆出租车在候客,我们事先有约好司机,但据说约旦关口的出租车都有专人负责的,有一挂着胸牌的约旦人号称是管理人员,专门负责各车辆的价格,因此还价的范围很小,如果不事先约好司机,几乎在这必被斩。建议大家都提前安排好。(约旦境内的全程包车费用是200JD,包括关口到佩特拉,佩特拉到Wadi Rum,Wadi Rum到关口。)

我们的司机准时到达,一辆7人座的丰田商务车,从约旦阿卡巴关口到佩特拉车程差不多2个小时,中间路过Wadi Rum。可以根据自己的需要选择先去Wadi Rum或先去佩特拉。

到达约旦境内后高速公路两旁都是贫瘠的山脉,一点绿色植被都没,四周的建筑都是典型的中东小平房,这样的画面只在游戏里见过。我们的司机很客气,在咨询过我们后放起了中东音乐,在背景音乐的伴随下,穿越在荒芜的戈壁中,看着窗外的景色,才发现自己已经真正的来到了中东。

驾车1个多小时后,在山顶处一店铺前稍作休整,可能司机与店铺有一些联系把。这里风景不错,在店铺的顶楼能够看见整片戈壁,店主太热情了,一会给你试这个一会给你画眼线,在盛情难却下买了2根约旦的阿拉伯围巾,店主号称是全手工的,最终35JD两条的价格买入。最后到了佩特拉才发现,这围巾最多也就10JD一条

2个小时的车程到达了佩特拉酒店,入住后稍作休整,开始第一天的佩特拉之旅。出了酒店在Tripadvisor上查到了佩特拉排名第一的餐厅 Three steps restaurant & cafe. 餐厅离我们酒店不远,按谷歌地图的指示步行5分钟就能找到,我们到达的时候已经是下午2点了,餐厅内只有一桌在用餐。浏览了下菜单,价格并不便宜,点了一些主菜和沙拉,味道还是很不错的。尤其是他们家的白切羊肉米饭配羊汤,吃的时候用勺将羊汤拌在饭里,非常鲜美。而且羊肉都是很大很大肥瘦相间的一块,吃的很满足。

按攻略所说,佩特拉景区内的水非常的贵,因此大家都在小镇上买了很多的水背着,这里同一样商品有2个价格,当地人和游客价格是不一样的,大瓶水的统一价格都是1JD一瓶,而当地人买会便宜一半。不过后面我们才发现大可不必背水进去,景区内的水也只有1JD。

令我震惊的唯有东方大地,玫瑰红墙见证了整个历史 ——John William Burgon

19世纪的英国诗人曾在诗作里赞誉这个沙漠古城,佩特拉因此还有另一个美丽的名字叫“玫瑰之城”纳巴泰人在峡谷中开凿出精致的宫殿与墓穴。利用这里险要的地形对来往货物征税致富,佩特拉成为当时重要的驿站,来自西亚的商人带来了财富,来自欧洲的工匠带来了先进的建筑技术。

当红海海上贸易兴起以后,作为陆路交通要塞的佩特拉逐渐衰弱了,慢慢的消失在了历史长河之中。与很多伟大奇迹的发现过程一样,佩特拉也是被一名外国探险家探索出来的,19世纪,一个瑞士探险者冒充成穆斯林,沿着狭窄的裂缝行进, 最终发现了今天的佩特拉。从而轰动世界。此时的佩特拉已经被贝都因人占领了几百年,直到目前为止,约旦皇室为了将此地作为约旦著名的旅游景点,特意在不远处建造了村落供贝都因人居住,并允许贝都因人在佩特拉景区内经商。

进入景区不久就会有阿拉伯人迎来让你乘坐马车,并会用英语告知马车是免费的,费用都包含在门票里,作为国人的我们,这种套数已经熟悉的不能再熟悉了,拒绝后自己步行进景区,佩特拉景区基本都保存着原始的样貌,石子路两旁有不少纳巴泰人的墓穴,根据墓穴的规格和开凿的精细度能判定墓主人当时社会地位的高低。

从景区门口到宝殿差不多需要步行20-30分钟。对佩特拉来说,从卡兹尼藏宝库开始才属于真正的起点。也就是说每次你进出景区,都必须走这20-30分钟的蛇道。所谓的蛇道其实就是一个很窄的峡谷,在群山中蜿蜒前行,颇为壮观。尤其是在最后一个弯道隐约看见卡兹尼藏宝库一角的那一刻,很能体会到19世纪瑞士探险家发现宝库时那激动的心情。

卡兹尼藏宝库建立在一个宽阔的广场上,非常雄伟。完全是从岩壁中手工凿出来,整个殿门分上下两层,下层是两根10米高的罗马式石柱,殿门上的三个石龛中分别雕有天使、圣母和武士。

关于佩特拉,有这几个关键的景点。卡兹尼藏宝库,皇室墓地,俯看卡兹尼藏宝库,高祭坛,修道院。这些景点都比较分散,只能根据自己的体力和时间来进行选择。我这里稍微梳理下线路。

主线:西克峡谷(蛇道)-卡兹尼藏宝库-正街-远看皇室墓地-佩特拉古城废墟

主线是最基本的线路了,从景区门口走到佩特拉古城废墟差不多1.5-2小时 来回的话小半天的时间,这条线都是平路,游客相对也比较的多,旅游团基本走的都是这条线。

修道院线:西克峡谷(蛇道)-卡兹尼藏宝库-正街-远看皇室墓地-佩特拉古城废墟-修道院-爬山俯看修道院和山外峡谷

这条线是比较经典的线路,虽然比主线只多了修道院这一个景点,但体力消耗差别是很大的,修道院建造在山顶,从佩特拉古城废墟爬到修道院差不多45分钟,这样从景区门口到修道院来回起码5个小时以上。既然来了佩特拉,强烈建议一定要走到修道院看看。这里的落日是非常美的,一定要在修道院看完落日再下山。

此线路全程下来还是蛮累的,如果体力不支也可以下山的时候选择贝都因人的毛驴,谈个价格能直接骑到卡兹尼藏宝库。这里要说明一下,据我观察,佩特拉景区里每一段都是有专人负责的,不是想象中的一辆马车能到底。

第一段:从景区门口到蛇道入口 差不多500-800米的距离,这段由阿拉伯人来运营,可以选择马车和骑马。

第二段:从蛇道入口到卡兹尼藏宝库 差不多1公里的距离,这段由贝都因人来运营,可以选择骆驼和马车。

第三段:从卡兹尼藏宝库到景区各个内部景点,无论是爬山还是平地都能选择毛驴。

个人觉得骑毛驴上山还是很危险的,这里山顶悬崖完全没有保护,很多山道也是天然形成,非常的滑,而且贝都因人都很喜欢表现自己,我亲眼看见一中国女孩骑着毛驴被贝都因人直接带到悬崖边,女孩都已经开始惊叫了,贝都因男孩还不以为然,一定要让毛驴走到落差几十米的悬崖最边上。我在旁边看的都是一身冷汗,如果当时那毛驴一失足,后果不堪想象。

俯看卡兹尼藏宝库线:西克峡谷(蛇道)-卡兹尼藏宝库-正街-皇室墓地-山顶俯视宝库

这条线路之所以出名是因为,夺宝奇兵的一张海报就是在这个角度拍摄的。可以在山顶俯看卡兹尼藏宝库,能拍到很不错的照片。这条线路和主线的区别就是在正街右侧的山道上山,到皇室墓地以后从左侧小路绕到山顶,沿着山顶小路一直前行到底。整个上山路程差不多需要1个小时,而且后半段基本没有路了,需要自己从乱石堆中爬过去。这条线很少会有游客前往,非常的安静。爬上山顶后能够一览佩特拉的全景。值得尝试。

高祭坛线:沿途有一些墓地-爬山俯看佩特拉古城废墟-远看斜对面的皇室墓地-高祭坛

这条线我们最终没有去,应该山顶有个祭坛。估算下上山下山起码3小时

9月28日 佩特拉

早上睡到自然醒,在酒店用了早餐后,再次赶往佩特拉,由于昨天在蛇道和宝库游玩了很久,这天节约了很多时间,一路上不时有贝都因人来推销,或者主动帮你系贝都因式的头巾,反正无论要为你做什么,婉言谢绝就行,不然他们都会让你付费。我们的司机来时和我们提醒过,在佩特拉里遇见贝都因小孩尽量不要给钱,不然他们会习惯于这种赚钱方式而不去学校好好的读书。后面一路上观察下来,贝都因小孩在景区内确实有很多。

这里的骆驼不是很友善。。。什么都想尝一尝。。

宝库到佩特拉废墟这一条主道上游客是最多的,这里有罗马人后期修建的大剧院,也能远观皇室墓地,过了佩特拉废墟后游客渐渐稀少了,也让你真正有机会去感受下佩特拉的宁静。修道院建于山顶,面朝夕阳,刚开始爬山还有精力去拍点照片,到后期已经完全没体力了,只想赶快到达,当一个转身看见修道院后,觉得一切都很值得。坐在修道院前的台阶上,看着夕阳照耀在这2000年前的建筑很有感触,我特别喜欢看废墟,之前去过泰姬陵,吴哥窟,用手触摸在残垣断壁上,闭上眼能感受到历史存在的温度,那些流传下来的,亦或是湮灭了的故事,仿佛就在身边发生着。

在修道院前待了差不多1小时,然后原路返回,等回到山脚下时,看着前方还有差不多3公里的路才能出景区,顿时感觉非常的劳累。巧的是正好有一辆本地人的皮卡准备返回小镇,和司机谈了25JD的价格,直接上车从景区另一条小道送回了酒店。

9月29日 佩特拉

前一天佩特拉的徒步确实非常的累,但又不愿意浪费宝贵的时间,自然醒后拖着疲累的身体再次出发,今天行程的目的是拍一张俯视卡兹尼藏宝库的照片,去之前在别人的游记里这条路线写的都很不详细,我们问了好几个贝都因人才找到这条小道。小道在皇家墓室的侧面,很多游客都在皇家墓室右侧参观,其实只有左侧这条小道才通往山顶。这条道路基本没有游客,而且景色不错,山顶有个平台,可以看到佩特拉的主道,我有恐高症,不敢过近的接近悬崖边,总怕一不留神掉下去。

下面这个建筑就是皇室墓地了

约旦的沙漠性气候非常干燥,尤其是中午的烈日照耀下更是炎热,没有防护措施肯定要被晒伤,我们沿着小道一路前行,翻过几个小山崖后终于到了目的地。目的地的观景台搭有一个帐篷,有一位腼腆的阿拉伯人在此做点小生意,游客来此他不会强求你购物,随便在这休息都行,当然你如果需要的话 也可以买点冰冻饮料照顾下生意。我们在这里待了一个小时左右,拍了一些照,和店主聊了一下。店主才28岁,还未结婚,聊到曾经的恋情,他悲伤的锤了锤自己的心说8年前曾经有个姑娘Break my heart。真看不出,阿拉伯人还如此的纯情,都8年了~

除了纯情,阿拉伯人也非常的虔诚,他们信奉伊斯兰教,每天准时祷告,我们在休息的时候看见他到了时间点就拿出垫子,面朝麦加的方向开始祷告。在耶路撒冷的公交车站,也看到穆斯林跪在绿地中虔诚的做着祷告。

另外值得一说的是,我们这次旅行从国内带了一些纹身贴纸,淘宝上买的,很便宜,贴在手上一般可以维持3天,贝都因人看见了都非常惊讶,都以为是真正的纹身,告知是贴纸后都很感兴趣,希望能够从我们这里购买。我们带的不多,送给他们一些。大家也可以带点在身边,自用或者做做小礼物都还不错。

佩特拉的三天之行就这样结束了,总的来说佩特拉给我留下的印象还是非常好的。这里保留着最原始的面貌,没有过多人工后期修筑的痕迹,贝都因人虽然会上前推销,但决不会强买强卖,而且都很热情,你要求合影什么都能很好的配合。他们的打扮和电影加勒比海盗的JACK很相似,画着深深的眼线,很有异域风情。贝都因人其实属于吉普赛人的一个分支,500年前来到佩特拉,发现了这个遗迹,从此在此生活了下来,一直到今天。所以佩特拉现在的主人是贝都因人。

Petra by night的演出时间是每周一、三、四晚上,我们没有观看,如果需要观看的话可以在酒店购票,差不多折合人民币170元一人吧,最好是提前购票,然后傍晚就直接在景区里不用出来了,不然长长的蛇道再走个来回还是非常累的。

9月30日  佩特拉-Wadi Rum

和司机约好9点出发前往Wadi Rum,司机准时到达,车程一个半小时。约旦的公路车很少,在山顶沿线让司机稍作休息拍了一些照。有点美国西部的感觉。

营地的Salman是一中东小伙,早早的在路口迎接我们,换上吉普车后 载着我们前往营地。Wadi Rum的沙漠区还是很大的,分布着好几个营地,我们的营地离景区大门不远,位置也算绝佳,可以看日出,也能看日落。到达营地差不多中午12点左右,热情的阿拉伯人给我们递上了当地的贝都因茶,虽然正午烈日当空,但沙漠的阴凉处还是非常凉爽,吹着凉爽的风喝着甜甜的红茶看着漫天的沙漠戈壁仿佛时间在此时停止了一般。

座落在约旦南部的Wadi Rum有个好听的名字——玫瑰沙漠,《火星救援》和《阿拉伯的劳伦斯》的拍摄地,仅仅这满地的红沙就足以能说明这个名字的由来,此处除去蓝天白云,真的就像游离在火星之上。

我们包了半天的吉普车,价格80JD,全程都是Salman来驾驶,基本玩遍了所有的景点。沙漠里的几个景点都差不多,很多是围绕阿拉伯劳伦斯的,劳伦斯是一个英国军官,曾经只身一人来到此处集结了各个阿拉伯人部落,推翻了奥斯曼土耳其的统治。他的名字在wadi Rum 无人不晓。这里有他曾经居住的地方,也有集合阿拉伯人的营地 等等。所以去之前一定要把电影看了,不然你什么都看不懂。

吉普车一路上都穿梭在沙漠中,看着荒无人烟的沙漠,有种错觉如果此时将自己置身于此处,是不是能活着走出去,也想起当初劳伦斯带领着阿拉伯人从这里走到阿卡巴是何等的艰难。

沙漠中有几个小型的休息站,累了可以在这里喝点贝都因茶稍作休息,茶水没有实际的费用,走的时候随便给一些小费放在盒子里就行,不过按约旦的汇率,随便给1JD也相当于人民币10元。我们5人给了2JD。

有个景点是一个天然石桥,从旁边可以自己爬上去,我恐高,爬上去还行,下来的时候还是感觉蛮恐怖的。

下午5点左右司机带我们到了一个看夕阳的地方,离营地不远。这里很空旷,这辈子第一次在沙漠里看夕阳,很美。落日的时间是很短的,如果要拍照的话 尽量早点过来。这个时间段,每一刻都是Magic time,光的亮度和色调都不同。 在这里我拍出了此处旅行中最满意的照片。

回到营地,天已经渐黑,半天的沙漠行程感觉浑身都是沙子,趁着气温还不算很低洗了个冷水澡。7点左右营地开始晚餐,这里的晚餐很有特色,两层的架子上放满了腌制的鸡肉,土豆,洋葱 然后在地穴中烧烤,打开的时候一阵扑鼻的肉香,味道出乎意料的好,本来以为在沙漠中肯定会非常艰苦,没想到能有意外的惊喜。

吃完饭,拿出笔记本,坐在山崖下的露台上,看着当天拍的照片,没多久营地的服务生过来拍拍我,让我把笔记本合上,并且他把露台上的灯也关掉。指了指夜空 让我看。我抬头一看,惊呆了,漫天的星空映入眼帘。空旷的沙漠加上漫天的星空,仿佛一张黑幕挂满了闪烁的宝石。虽然没带脚架,但这样的美景肯定不容错过。和朋友拿起相机跑到营地外一阵狂拍。弄到凌晨才意犹未尽的回到营地,看到睡在山崖下露台上的服务员,好奇的问他这样睡不冷吗?他淡淡的回答,不会啊,在这里可以看到漫天的星星,很美丽。

10月1日  Wadi Rum-埃拉特-特拉维夫-耶路撒冷

清晨,一缕阳光透过远处的山尖照到营地,带着相机来到营地外,来之前我们就准备在这里拍一套跑步的动感照,清晨的阳光是红色的,照耀着玫瑰色的沙漠,更像是在火星之上。

这一天我们需要从Wadi Rum赶往耶路撒冷,时间相对很紧张。早早的从营地出发前往约旦的关口。约旦处的出境很顺利,几分钟就办完了手续,但前往以色列关口时,远远的就能看见有军人拿着阻-击-枪瞄着我们,第一次被枪口瞄准,而且还是狙击手,硬着头皮走到以色列关卡处,发现是狙击手通过狙-击-枪上的瞄准镜来观察从约旦过来的人,可能是被恐怖袭击过太多次,在敌我防御这一方面,以色列做的非常非常的严格。虽然目前两国处于和平期,相互开放了陆路口岸,但以色列对阿拉伯国家的戒备心一点没有减少。

曾经看过这样一篇报道,有一张图片的标题叫“英雄”,图片上是一个赤手空拳的巴勒斯坦青年,站在长长一列以色列坦克面前,硬是把这列坦克给拦停了。对于阿拉伯国家来说,这个巴勒斯坦青年确实是”英雄”,敢以血肉之躯和全幅武装的坦克抗衡,但是大家是否有想过,在处于”敌对”的情况下,有几个国家的坦克会停下来?当年日本侵略中国的坦克不会停,侵入阿富汗的美国坦克不会停,但以色列的坦克停下来了,这样的士兵、这样的国度,我个人认为,才是真正的英雄。

在以色列除了犹太教外,极大的给予了别的宗教的自由性,犹太人回到了这个应许之地,并没有排外,反而是阿拉伯国家一而再,再而三进行恐怖袭击。当然阿拉伯国家和以色列之间的恩怨,不是短短几句话能解释清楚,但现今处于这个和平时期,伊斯兰教的宗教制约严重影响了和平的发展。

进入以色列的第一关就是安检,所有的行李箱都会开箱进行搜查,书籍,手写笔记本都是严格排查的对象。前后查了近30分钟才被放行。重新回到了以色列,仿佛再次回到了欧洲国家。

由于当天是犹太人的安息日,担心没有长途车前往耶路撒冷,最终计划搭乘飞机前往特拉维夫,再由特拉维夫乘坐大巴车前往耶路撒冷。进入埃拉特机场后又是一次严格的审问,不过有了几次经验后已经慢慢开始习惯,最终在下午5点左右到达我们耶路撒冷的公寓。

在公寓楼下等了没多久,我们的房东开车来了,很热情的和我们打了招呼,把我们带往公寓,我们所订的公寓在犹太人社区内,楼下有个小绿地。很多爸爸妈妈带着小孩和狗在绿地里荡秋千,打乒乓球,一切都很和谐。我们居住的地方在二楼,差不多200多平方,1个超大的客厅 3个卧室和2个卫生间。我们5人居住绰绰有余。房间内设备一应俱全,非常的满意。以色列房东给我们简单做了介绍并告知今天和明天是安息日,他不方便接听任何电话,如果有什么需求,请给他留言。

我们先前在汽车站有购买一些泡面和水果,但买的不多。抱着试一试的心态想出去看看有没有未关门的餐厅,安息日是从星期五下午4点开始的,4点一过所有的店铺都会关门,公交也停止运营。在外面逛了一大圈,整个街道冷冷清清,偶尔看到几个人,都是穿着漂亮的正装,手里端着食物赶去家庭聚会。最终问了当地犹太人后才得知附近有个美国餐厅可能会营业,这家餐厅不大,但是人来人往,客聚如潮,我们只能在门口找到个小桌子。点了一些西式正餐,味道还算不错,5个人消费700多人民币。从餐厅走回公寓,路见一犹太会堂,大量的犹太人戴着礼帽在此祈祷唱歌。

说到犹太会堂不得不提及一下它的重要性。公元70年,犹太人被罗马人赶出了巴勒斯坦地区,从此犹太人被分散到了世界各地,颠沛流离了1800多年。如果换成其他民族,估计1800年来多数会被同化,犹太是个多灾多难的民族,自古以来,他们不断受到邻近民族的欺凌和迫害;他们散居世界各地,长期饱受亡国之苦;犹太人创立了犹太教和基督教,却因为耶稣而负上背叛者的罪名.可以说,犹太民族的历史就是一部民族苦难史。

之所以犹太人在自己没有国家的前提下 一直能将犹太教传承下来。很大的因素是因为这个犹太会堂,无论犹太人流散到哪里,他们都会自发建立一个犹太会堂,专门供犹太人来这里祈祷,学习。耶路撒冷有着大量的基督教堂,东正教堂,天主教堂,甚至有很多的清真寺。但对犹太人来说,1800年的历史长河已经洗刷掉一切关于犹太人的生活痕迹,当他们重新回到这个应许之地,唯一留存下来的只有那一面院墙,曾经属于第二圣殿西面的围墙。他们把这堵墙作为精神的寄托。起了一个只有犹太人才能共鸣的名字-哭墙。

10月1日 耶路撒冷

早上睡到8点多钟,洗漱完毕,一个人去楼下的超市逛了一圈。以色列的超市和国内的差不多。有很多商品在做买一送一的促销。但价格和国内比还是高了不少,这里水果味道都不错,选择的范围也很多。蔬菜很贵。买了一些T骨牛排,让店员劈了5块。味道非常的好。另外以色列的红酒在欧洲还是很有名的,超市里也有促销,差不多140人民币买一送一。还有这里的冰欺凌也非常好吃,奶油味很浓。由于我们去的时候正巧遇上犹太新年,这天超市只开半天,以色列和中国不同,只要遇到安息日和新年这等节日,所有的店铺,超市,餐厅都会关闭,对游客来说很不方便。只能在阿拉伯区购物吃饭。所以尽量避开这些节日来耶路撒冷。

我们在约旦的时候就看到新闻说以色列前总统佩雷斯过世了,佩雷斯在以色列有着非常高的评价,在以色列建国的60年中,起了举足轻重的作用。他推动以色列军火业的发展。是以色列的核弹之父。在路上经常能看见市民为了纪念他而设的灵坛。

这天的行程安排是前往巴勒斯坦地区的伯利恒。巴以冲突对我们国人来说都很熟悉,那段时间整天可以在新闻联播里听到。而真正对他的了解却不多,甚至很多时候我们都错误的去理解了以色列的局势。

目前的巴勒斯坦严格上讲已不是一个国家而是以色列国内的一个地区。没有军事武装,只能拥有警察部队。使用的都是以色列货币,前往巴勒斯坦不用另外办理签证。1947年联合国把巴勒斯坦地区割成了两块,允许犹太人购买土地,开始复国。当时以色列拥有1.5万平方公里,巴勒斯坦1.1万平方公里,但由于宗教的冲突,双方都不同意这个划分,并引发了周边阿拉伯世界的卷入,几十年里总共打了5次中东战争,在第三次中东战争的时候,以色列占领了埃及的西奈半岛和约旦的巴勒斯坦地区,最终在压力下,以色列以土地换取和平,归还了西奈半岛和部分巴勒斯坦地区。也慢慢形成了今天的格局。

前往伯利恒必须要在大马士革门门口乘坐阿拉伯人的公交,其实还是蛮方便的,大马士革门对门就是一个公交车总站,很显眼。黄色的公交牌上有写目的地。找到开往Bethlehem的车就行。人不多,上车买票,都有座位。从大马士革门开到伯利恒差不多40分钟,途中会经过巴以隔离墙,有以色列军人专门把守,但前往伯利恒方向的车不会被查。

下车后会有很多阿拉伯人围上来推销一日游的行程,婉言拒绝后跟着Google map的导航前往圣诞教堂,对于基督教来说,伯利恒有着非同一般的意义,这里是基督教创始人耶稣的诞生地,是仅次于耶路撒冷圣墓教堂的基督教第二圣地。一路上会穿过一个阿拉伯人的集市,人非常的多。但也能领略一下阿拉伯人的市场氛围。一路上有很多当地的阿拉伯小贩在出售各类阿拉伯小吃,由于卫士状况实在欠佳,不敢尝试。

另外在这里拍照也要格外注意,阿拉伯人不喜欢随便被拍,拍本地人前最好先打个招呼,得到允许后再进行拍摄。街上有很多巴勒斯坦带枪警察,从警徽上能分辨出他们属于巴勒斯坦而非以色列。

穿过阿拉伯市场就是圣诞教堂门前的伯利恒游客中心,这里是一个相对较大的广场,周边有很多吃饭的阿拉伯餐厅,所有来参观圣诞教堂的旅行团都会将车停在此处。

这里有很多巴勒斯坦青年,而他们是巴以冲突最主要的推手。我前面在写这篇游记的时候刚刚跳出一篇新闻,“耶路撒冷发生枪击案致2死5伤”,行凶者就是巴勒斯坦青年,在这里我不能去评论谁对谁错,在耶路撒冷大马士革门前,我亲眼目睹了一个巴勒斯坦男孩被以色列警察按在墙上搜身,从警察身上透出的那种气势,深深的让我感受到他内心的敌意。而那一位巴勒斯坦男孩却让我感受到了一种说不出的无奈。我们没有信仰,无法去体会到那些种族与宗教之间冲突的根源。我们生活在一个和平的国家,无法去感受到战争的恐怖。但当有一天你走在路上,突然被一个持枪的士兵按在墙上搜身,你会如何?

穿过广场,一直有巴勒斯坦青年对你说,Welcome to Palestine.是的Welcome to Palestine~,很心酸的一句话。巴勒斯坦在联合国上目前只是一个观察国,但对于这些青年而言巴勒斯坦是一个不折不扣的国家,他们也希望在此告诉游客,你来到的这里是巴勒斯坦而不是以色列。

圣诞教堂不大,但游客众多。基本都是欧洲基督徒来此朝圣,去的时候正好在大修,教堂内部搭的都是脚手架,但挡不住基督徒的敬仰之心,参观基督诞生的那个马槽和圣诞之星的地方排着长长的队伍。预计没1-2小时参观不了。我们非基督徒,就放弃了。

出了教堂,在教堂附近稍作休息,发现围墙裂隙深处有一张纸条,虽然看不懂,但应该是基督徒留下写有祈福的纸条。折好,放回原处。

在广场周边的阿拉伯餐馆用了简单的午餐,打车前往巴以隔离墙参观那些特色的涂鸦。可能是出租车司机理解错误,把我们带到了隔离墙的一个关口。从这个关口可以步行前往耶路撒冷,但也必须经过一系列的核查。

周边找了很久,我们最后才在附近的停车场里找到了一小处的涂鸦墙。 所谓的涂鸦墙,其实是巴勒斯坦青年在隔离墙上用绘画和文字来表达自己反对以色列入侵的意愿。只有巴勒斯坦这一面才有,当初我们不知道,还特意手机上找到涂鸦的图片问以色列的军人,这个墙在哪里,军人根本就不理我们。

其中有一幅涂鸦上写着1989 berlin wall,2010 this wall.很明显他的愿望没能达到,从政治上来讲 柏林墙和巴以隔离墙的概念完全不同。以现在的军事实力来看,真的有一天巴以隔离墙拆除,更多的会是因为以色列完全控制了整个巴勒斯坦地区。

从这里出巴勒斯坦都会有以色列军人检查护照和行李,但从耶路撒冷到巴勒斯坦却可以直接进入。一系列检查后走出关口就是公交车站,搭乘公交车开往大马士革门。到达耶路撒冷已经是下午4点多了,稍微在老城里逛了一圈,就回了公寓。

10月2日 死海

由于从约旦玩到耶路撒冷 实在太过劳累,这天早上我们都在公寓休息,下午才出发前往死海。死海离耶路撒冷有1个多小时的车程,耶路撒冷老城有很多旅行社都可以报1日游。但我们看下来价格参差不齐。大多数的旅行社都是死海+马萨达一起的。我们没有选择去马萨达,最终在网上找了一家口碑还行的旅行社报了死海半日游。

网址:https://abrahamtours.com/

这家我也是在攻略看到别人推荐的,可以直接网上付款,支持银联。不用特意跑去门店。出发前会有专人联系你,和你告知具体的集合地点,全程无购物。

下午1点准时到达集合点,我们这个半日团差不多10多人吧,按时出发。到达死海后会分给每人一条浴巾并告知大家2个半小时后在原地集合。和中国的景点一样,入门处就是一个死海泥品牌的销售点,必须穿过才能到达景区。这里的东西价格非常的虚高,随随便便就可以答应你打7.5折,我们没有选择在此购买。

死海是地球陆地上海拔最低的地方,现在海平面以每年一米的速度在降低,没多久就会消失。死海其实是一个湖泊,但还是蛮大的。这里可以直接看到对岸的约旦。以色列死海这边没有什么好的酒店,如果想在死海宅酒店的话最好选择去约旦那边

景区的更衣室很大也蛮干净,换好泳装走到海边,感觉真的是暴晒啊,死海附近都是黑黑的死海泥,看上去感觉蛮脏的,但这可是好东西。小时候我们就学过一篇课文《死海不死》,当时不会游泳对死海特别感兴趣,总幻想自己能够在海上漂一整天多好。其实当真的来了以后才发现小时候想法是多么的不现实。在死海里漂10分钟就热的不行了,身上的海水被太阳晒干后浑身都是黏糊糊的,非常的不舒服。如果不小心将海水弄到眼睛里,想死的心都有,非常的疼。另外死海底部有大量的乱石和盐晶,赤脚走的话一定要慢。我老婆由于一不小心脚后跟被划了一个口子加上海水的浸泡,疼的受不了。必须立即用淡水冲洗。

上岸后就地取材,用海边的黑泥涂满全身,不用几分钟就会被太阳晒干,浑身的皮肤都会紧缩,感觉紧绷绷的,然后用淡水冲洗干净,真的瞬间感觉神清气爽,非常舒服。这绝对是死海泥产品的最好广告。

 

回到耶路撒冷,看时间尚早,打算去哭墙看看。但这天正好是犹太新年,街上出租车非常少,很久才来了一辆,2公里的路居然开价70谢克,考虑了下还是打算返回公寓。

犹太新年假期有三天,这3天假期和安息日差不多,街上人非常少,尤其到了犹太人社区,街上几乎看不到什么人,所有的店铺全部关闭,还好家里有牛排,回去自己烹饪。

10月3日 耶路撒冷

我们待在耶路撒冷已经是第三天了,前2天去了巴勒斯坦和死海,最后这天打算游览下耶路撒冷老城。

耶路撒冷老城是三教圣地,三千年来经历过无数战争,经历过无数的统治,每一块砖都有故事。耶路撒冷古城面积不过一平方公里,犹太教说这是古犹太王国的首都,基督教说这是耶稣基督诞生的圣地,伊斯兰教说,它是受祝福的神圣之地。希伯来语中耶路撒冷是『和平之城』的意思,可是这里历史上先后被摧毁18次,这里始终是争夺和被迫害的中心,这艰难的和平之路与这座城名字背后的寓意形成了鲜明的对比.

早上直接打车赶到哭墙,可惜的是哭墙安息日和节假日都不允许拍照,管理的很严格。

进入哭需要戴上犹太小圆帽。犹太人认为,头上有天,那是上帝所在之地,因此不可用头顶面对而不敬,一定要用帽相隔。许多犹太人在祷告结束后,以后退的形式离开哭墙,以示敬畏。很多犹太人穿着白衣在这里做新年祷告,人非常的多,好不容易挤到墙边,学着犹太人的样子将手和头贴在墙壁上去感受下这面凝聚着犹太人历史的精神建筑。这里是犹太人回归内心家园的圣地。不过即便我不是犹太人,也能在这里感受到那种回归的平静。墙面的裂缝中被用各国语言书写的小纸条塞满,来之前我也写下了一张为家人祈福的纸条,临走时塞入了墙缝。

在哭墙广场观望了一下,发现不远处有一平台能够拍到哭墙的全景,并且不是在管制范围内,穿过了几条小巷,终于找到。这里是西墙边的一个制高点,有2位军人专门把守。但他们并不限制游客拍照。

耶路撒冷除了哭墙外最出名的应该是圣墓教堂和金顶清真寺了。我们沿着苦路前往圣墓教堂。在基督教中,这是耶稣走过的最后一段路,他被钉死在十字架的地方。很多来耶路撒冷的朝圣基督徒都要重走耶稣的苦路,并从穆斯林区狮门起步,最后到达圣墓教堂(共14站)。

基督教的几处最重要遗迹都在圣墓教堂里面,包括涂油石(耶稣下葬前身体停放的石头)和耶稣之墓。每年都有数千万来自世界各地的基督信徒前来圣墓教堂朝圣。可惜这个场所在犹太新年并不开放,我们只能在外面观看了一下。

在老城里找了一家阿拉伯餐厅吃了顿午餐,居然要自助式50RMB一人,只有一个菜烤肉+薯条,后面和老板谈了下 点了3份 5个人分。味道实在太差,应该是我们在以色列和约旦吃过最差的一家了,肉根本咬不动。

大马士革门附近都是阿拉伯人的聚集处,相对人比较杂乱,卖的东西看上去质量都很差。应该都是义乌批发过来的。

从大马士革门出了老城,门口就有275路公交车直接前往橄榄山,由于我们一开始并不知道站台在哪,直接去了汽车站寻找,最终没找到,打了一辆车上山,刚刚上出租车开了没几步,就发现了前方的275路公交车。原来公交车是沿着城墙边的这条路行驶的,车站就在大马士革门出口右边点,不用过马路到对面的汽车站。

车直接开到了橄榄山墓地这把我们放下来,后面游览好才发现,其实最好是让司机将车开到升天教堂门口,升天教堂在最高处,这样可以一路游览下来,不走重复路。如果乘坐275路公交的话,升天教堂附近也有站点。橄榄山大多是阿拉伯人居住,山顶是个小镇,购物什么都很方便。

据说这里是耶稣升天的地方,教堂里有块石头上印有耶稣升天时留下的脚印,基督徒将其作为耶稣留在地上最后的痕迹加以崇拜。作为非基督徒的我们实在没有太大的感触。

从升天教堂往山下走,交叉口处就是主祷文教堂了。是主耶稣训诫主祷文之地,这个教堂是收费的,我们没有进入。

继续往山下走,就能看见一片墓地,石棺整齐的摆放在山坡上,数以千计。从这里的观景台能够远望耶路撒冷老城,墓地遥望着老城,无休止的宗教冲突,屠杀,战争,恐怖主义,将耶路撒冷变成了战场。信仰与冲突,守卫与抗争,才是这座城的底色

耶稣曾经预言末日来临之时将会复活,当他复活之时,他的信徒也将复活。长久以来,朝圣者为了死在耶路撒冷、葬在圣殿山周围,以为末日来临时的复活作准备而前往耶路撒冷,他们还在继续前来。这座城市被墓地包围并且建在墓地之上。许多私人住宅都建在坟墓周围。这里的死人宛如活人一般,他们只是在那里等待复活。

在这墓地中只有一个墓是纳粹党的,他就是辛德勒,建议大家来以色列前先看一下《辛德勒的名单》这个电影,非常的好看。他在德国纳粹屠杀犹太人的时候,以一己之力救下了1000多个犹太人。现在每年他的忌日,都会有很多当初他救下的犹太人后裔来此祭拜。墓地上的石头代表着祭拜的人对死者的哀思。

穿过墓地的半山腰处就是主哭耶京堂,这里很小,但最特别的是从教堂内部可以拍到一张很有寓意的照片。我们在拍摄的时候来了一批基督教团队游客,一进教堂都依次在座位上坐好,这架势让我们也不好意思继续拍照,收起相机也安静的坐在一边。很像神父的一位男士走到祷告桌前,单膝跪下深情的亲吻了一下桌子,然后拿出圣经开始领读,每读一句下面的基督徒也会跟读一句,他们说的不是英语,虽然听不懂,却能从语句中听出他们内心的虔诚。除了感受到了平静,没有信仰的我们无法产生更多共鸣。

从主哭耶京堂出来,我们没有继续往下走,回到了山顶275路车站,搭乘公交车返回老城。穿过大马士革门,在一家阿拉伯人开的饮品店稍作休息,喝了耶路撒冷最有特色的鲜榨石榴汁。一大杯石榴汁需要经过2-3个石榴压榨才能制成,有一些淡淡的涩味。可能浓度比较高,一下子喝完胃部会稍有不适。

我们边走边游览,一直走到了雅法门,到达雅法门的时候已经太阳西下。一路上经常能看到很多戴着黑帽,穿着正装的犹太人匆匆从身边经过,回来查了一下才知道这些打扮传统的犹太人叫哈瑞迪,属于最虔诚的犹太教徒

在以色列有大量的哈瑞迪,他们不工作,不服兵役,每天研读犹太经典,而且自14岁起,哈瑞迪男孩便不再学习任何世俗的科目(科学、数学、外语),转而专注在犹太律法的研读。政府每年会发放津贴给予哈瑞迪,从而这样哈瑞迪还不承认以色列国家和政府,他们深信犹太人在政治上独立是由神的介入,也就是救世主默西亚的到来,也因此任何干涉历史进程的举动都是违背犹太律法的,故而反对以色列国家和政府的存在。随着这个群体人口的急剧膨胀,对他们豁免兵役和实行津贴,军事和财政压力日渐加剧。不纳税、不服兵役,享受国家福利还同时憎恨这个国家,不能容忍其他人群的生活方式,这种严重的不公平已经令以色列主流社会愤怒。

10月5日 耶路撒冷-特拉维夫

这天是犹太新年假期最后一天,查了一下到特拉维夫的交通,所有火车,巴士都停止运营。只有一种阿拉伯人运营的黄色小巴可以选择。票价35谢克一人。小巴直接停在特拉维夫的汽车站,下了车,就有阿拉伯人过来询问,告知他酒店名称后,他带领我们上了另外一辆阿拉伯人运营的公交车,8谢克一人,直接送到酒店。

特拉维夫的酒店非常的贵,5星酒店的价格基本都在2000元一晚,我们所订的酒店很小,但还算干净。离沙滩步行也只有3分钟。到达酒店前台的时候居然空无一人,最后联系到客服才知道 这里只有下午2点30后才能check in,把行李留在前台,去附近逛一圈准备找个餐厅吃午饭。

离酒店不远有一家中国餐厅,主营个各类馄饨,面,粉。餐厅不大,老板娘是越南华侨,在特拉维夫已经待了37年了,还会说一点点不流利的普通话。来这里旅游已经10几天,看到中国餐厅大家都很开心。点了几碗馄饨面和一碗炒饭。对于味道一开始也没抱多大希望,在国外吃中国餐,味道基本都会变很多。馄饨面里的馄饨基本就是小笼包,个头很大。面也是用泡面来煮的。好在汤里加了酸菜,感受到了一点家乡的味道。吃完结账,居然高达260谢克。折合人民币500多元。平均下来一碗面差不多要100人民币。

 

吃好午饭在隔壁的咖啡店坐了1个小时,才看见前台服务员来上班,办理好入住,下午直接打车去了雅法老城。

特拉维夫作为以色列曾经的首都(虽然现在以色列把首都搬到了耶路撒冷,但国际社会上很多人并不承认,各国的大使馆都还设在特拉维夫),这里是犹太人最早回归的地方。二战结束后,在英国人的默许下,一些犹太人回到巴勒斯坦地区,和阿拉伯人混住在雅法,但由于宗教的冲突,犹太人在雅法受到了不公平的待遇,他们被迫开始往雅法的北面迁移,买下了这里的大片土地,慢慢的发展成了一个城市规模。以色列建国后把这片区域叫特拉维夫,由于雅法老城离的很近,也经常合在一起称作 特拉维夫-雅法。

雅法港在大航海时期,与大马士革,贝鲁特一起是东地中海的最重要港口,但随着航运的发展现今以色列的第一大港已经迁移到了海法。现在这里还保存着当时的样子,古老的灯塔仍然屹立在老城中,虽然早已停止使用,但可以感受到这里曾经悠长的历史。

老城游客并不多,三三两两的在参观,有点像鼓浪屿,老建筑内现还居住着一些犹太人。非常戏剧的是,100年前这里还曾是阿拉伯人的地盘,只有不到5%的犹太人借居在此,而如今确只有不到4%的阿拉伯人留在特拉维夫.

老城内的街道都很狭小,每条街道都用一个星座来标识,游览的同时找找自己的星座也是一种乐趣。

离开老城走到海边的老码头,这里有很多犹太人在海边散步,犹太人特别爱养狗,而且都是那种大型犬。海滩边看见很多带着孩子 带着狗一起在沙滩上嬉戏的画面。融合着金色地中海落日,感觉非常的温馨。

我们沿着长长的海岸线漫步回家,傍晚的海边非常凉爽,海风习习,到处都是温暖的画面,让人淡忘了这里曾经恐怖袭击不断。在哈马斯的策划下,这里几乎每年都会有阿拉伯人发动自杀式袭击,去年的公交车炸弹爆炸事件导致10多个犹太人死亡,今年6月份的枪-击事件就发生在这个海边,导致4人死亡,10多人受伤。

在上海,恐怖袭击离我们很远,但在这里却每天都可能发生在身边。犹太人仿佛已经习惯了这样的生活,他们并不畏惧。加沙地带离特拉维夫很近,2014年一枚来自加沙地带的火-箭-弹在特拉维夫机场附近2公里爆炸,为了报复,以色列出动了战机轰炸了加沙地带的多个地点,导致了600多巴勒斯坦人死亡。在目前以色列压倒性的战力下,巴勒斯坦几乎没有丝毫还手之力,但为此还是恐怖袭击频频,其中的仇恨,我们无法体会得到。

在回去的路上碰到一家当地人颇多的小餐厅,用了简单的以色列餐。

10月5日 特拉维夫

今天是在以色列活动的最后一天,用Google map搜到最近的商场离我们酒店不远。这家商场有3层,各大品牌的专卖店都有,但看下来基本都不便宜,甚至比国内还贵不少。在药妆店找到了AHAVA 系列。这个品牌的死海泥是比较有名的,以色列的价格也不高,他家最有名的就是AHAVA 面膜和 AHAVA 护手霜。可能来这里的游客不多,我们一下子购入近50支护手霜 20支面膜,给店员带来不少的惊喜。

商场三楼有家麦当劳,简单的用了午餐回到酒店,睡了个午觉,等太阳快落山时再次前往特拉维夫的海滩。

在海滩看到一块希伯来文和英文纂写的纪念碑。上面写着1939年8月22日,一艘载着860名非法犹太移民的船舶,冲破了英国封锁线,从欧洲来到了这个海滩。这个,只是上千犹太人逃离的一批,他们通过这样方式,逃离了骇人听闻的纳粹大屠杀。同样一片海,不远之处也上演着人生悲剧,无数人通过简易皮划艇逃离叙利亚前往欧洲。

也许,只有大海,才能见证这样的类似的历史,不同的人生。

以色列街道上有很多如下的装置,是专门收集可回收垃圾的,在环保这一方面做的很好。

在以色列的建筑工地,经常能看到这一的设备,仔细观察了下,是由一个一个塑料圆筒组合而成,建筑垃圾可以由这个管道直接投放到垃圾车呢,就这样一个很小的细节,发现和国内的差距就很大。

在Tripadvisor上找到一家好评度不错的海鲜餐厅,离海滩不远,我们根据导航在犹太人居住区内找到,在店员的推荐下点了一些海鲜,味道相当不错。5个人一共吃了差不多900多人民币。

10月6日 特拉维夫-北京

我们的航班是下午15点30的,考虑到以色列安检的严格,我们9点出发,在酒店对面用了早餐,搭乘公交10路车到达特拉维夫火车站,再从火车站搭乘火车前往机场。火车直接停在航站楼内,上了电梯就是出发层。

一般以色列人不会被盘查,我们则会被详细的询问。又是问了一系列的问题,严格的对照了护照上的照片,由于照片都是10年前拍的,有一些小小的出入。巡查员还会将领导叫来再次核实。反正非常的严格。怪不得特拉维夫机场是全世界最安全的机场

从到达机场到进入候机楼,差不多花费了2个小时。特拉维夫机场不算大,这里购物都是按美金结算。东西比外面商场要便宜不少。尤其是产于以色列的摩洛哥油Moroccan oil。价格只是国内的三分之一,非常划算。尽量多逛几个商店,同样的产品在不同的店铺里活动不一样。同样的摩洛哥油,机场内的两个店铺居然差10美金。

从以色列返回北京的航班比来时少3个小时,差不多飞9小时就能到达。国际航班一般不会误点,但出行李的速度非常慢。我们差不多下飞机后等了近1个小时才取到行李,当初购买北京飞上海的机票是早晨7点20的,最终差点赶不上航班。并且国内航班有限重,平均一个人限重20公斤,我们行李有些超重,最后留下了一个24寸行李箱,准备随身登机,可没想到我们在以色列购买的护手霜属于违禁品,无法带上飞机。只能在匆匆的赶出去找快递寄回。本来时间就不够,这样一折腾赶到登机口的时候基本都快起飞了。

14天的行程说长不长,说短也不短,回到上海后的前2天 总有错觉自己还在以色列。我很欣慰自己选择了去这样一个国家旅游。在旅行途中我看到和学到了很多以前不了解的知识。以色列在我眼里已不在神秘。在这段时间里,没有感受到任何恐怖的氛围,这里有浓郁的宗教气息、带着故事的古老建筑、有着活泼可爱的儿童、午后的甜蜜下午茶、夜幕下的小吃集市、严密的安检,以及你想象不到的民族融合。多出来走走,你才会发现世界并不是新闻联播里的样子

有时候,回想起来旅行中的事,更容易留下的不是沉重的历史,而恰恰是一些无关紧要的细节,这些细节的拼凑恰恰更能加深对旅程的那些回忆。

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